After 10 years on the road, we updated our towing vehicle to a 2015 Nissan Frontier with a larger engine, more towing capacity, and even a rear bed cover to keep our extra gear out of the weather. But we were surprised when we hooked up our vintage camper, because the truck’s rear axle was riding a little low. Had the trailer gained weight? Or did we not have the right tow hitch?
Despite having a preinstalled towing package, our new truck didn’t have the same rear suspension of the former. When we hitched up and loaded our extra gear into the back, it caused the rear suspension to sag. To remedy this, we added “helper springs.” We’ve ridden along smooth and level for four years now.
This experience pointed out a key difference between overloading the suspension and overloading the vehicle’s capacity. Increasing the stiffness of your rear suspension will not increase the total towing capacity or total tongue weight limits of your vehicle. In our case, it helped level our tow and smooth out the ride.
In our recent article about hitches, we discussed a few key points about safe driving with a trailer, as well as the different classes of hitches. But how do you choose the right tow hitch for your vehicle?
| 4 Things to Know, BEFORE You Tow | Our Example: 2015 Nissan Frontier + 15’ Camper |
| Tow Vehicle’s Towing Capacity (TC) | 6,100 pounds (5,000*) |
| T-GVW (Trailer Gross Vehicle Weight) | 3,300 pounds [should be less than 80% of (TC)] |
| Trailer’s Tongue Weight (TW) | 330 pounds |
| Rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (rGAWR) | 3,331 pounds |
*Our vehicle’s towing capacity is less when using a standard rear hitch (dead weight); a weight distribution hitch allows us to tow closer to the maximum weight of 6,100 pounds.
Don’t know your numbers? Here are some great resources to determine them for your situation. Each hitch class has a safe range. Below are some considerations that might make your hauling experience even safer!
RV Hitch Options
Standard Hitch & Receiver (aka Dead Weight)
Class III trailer hitches are the most common. They cover the largest range of vehicles with moderate towing capacity, as well as the largest range of trailers. With a 2-inch by 2-inch hitch receiver and a 2-inch – 2 5/16-inch ball receiver, this setup will handle many campers.
In a standard set-up, the weight of the trailer is primarily resting upon the towing vehicle’s rear axle. The recommended towing capacity in this configuration is less than the manufacturer’s maximum capacity.
It is important to choose the right rise or drop on the hitch insert (ball mount) so that the trailer and tow vehicle ride level. Measuring the height of your hitch receiver and the height of your trailer hitch coupler (while level and on level ground) should do the trick. There are several hitch types:
Standard Hitch Types
- Riser Hitch. Raises the ball above the hitch receiver.
- Drop Hitch. Lowers the ball below the hitch receiver. You can turn a riser into a drop by simply flipping it over and reorienting the ball (and vice versa).
- Adjustable Hitch. This is a good choice if you’re going to be hauling various trailers.
Weight Distribution Hitch vs. Sway Bars
- Weight distribution hitches include metal spring bars that connect to brackets on the trailer tongue. When loaded this helps distribute the weight of the entire rig across both axles of the towing vehicle and the axle(s) of the trailer. Everything rides smoothly and evenly, which maintains performance, braking, and control of the rig. Many modern weight distribution hitches also include sway control. These hitches allow a greater towing capacity. For example our Nissan Frontier has a maximum of 6,100 pounds with a weight distribution hitch. But it has only 5,000 pounds with a standard hitch.
- Sway bars are a friction device that connects from the side of the trailer tongue to a secondary ball mount on the side of the ball hitch insert. When driving at highway speeds, any crosswinds have to overcome the additional friction of the sway bar in order to push the trailer around. This helps keep everything tracking nicely behind the tow vehicle. To maneuver into a camping spot, it’s a simple matter of releasing the tension on the bar so you can more easily back into a tight spot.
Hitches for BIG RIGS
Class IV and V hitches are for towing the heaviest loads. Both fifth wheels and gooseneck hitches have a connection point in the bed of the towing truck, rather than near the bumper. Either allows for a closer pivot point so that the trailer tracks better when cornering and is generally more maneuverable as a result. The difference between the two is where the coupler mechanism lies.
- Gooseneck trailers locate the ball hitch in the truck bed, while the coupler is on the trailer “neck.” As the name suggests, it looks like a bird reaching into the back of the truck.
- Fifth wheel hitches locate the “ball” on the trailer, while the coupler is installed in the center of the truck bed. Fifth wheel couplers are more intricate, can handle more weight and generally allow a smoother, and more stable tow, which is why they are preferred over goosenecks for RV applications.
In our next blog, we’ll cover some do’s and don’ts when connecting trailers, some common mistakes we’ve made, and discuss the great “grease or no grease” debate.
Eager to learn more about hitches? That’s very wise. Read more from our RV Tow Hitches 101 series.
Hitch Types and Ratings: RV Basics (Part 1)
How to Choose the Right Tow Hitch for Your RV (Part 2)
5 Common Mistakes That Lead to RV Trailer Hitch Problems (Part 3)
