Looking forward to hitching up and hitting the road in your new RV? Well, safe to say, RV Towing 101 probably wasn’t covered the last time you took a DMV test. And yet the difference between driving a standard vehicle and driving while towing a trailer is significant. Very significant. And you won’t be able to enjoy that newly purchased RV trailer without understanding hitch types and ratings.
So, let’s get you hooked up with all the towing know-how you need. In this article, we’ll provide some pointers for the road, a few key hitch facts, and a breakdown of classes of hitch types and ratings. Additionally, we’ll provide follow-on articles (coming soon) on choosing the right hitch and common mistakes.
Some Considerations Before You Hit Road
- Stopping distance is increased, perhaps doubled, at highway speeds.
- Overall vehicle length is doubled, or more. You need more space in order to pull out into traffic, to merge, pass, to make a turn, and to maneuver in general.
- Your total rig weight is much greater, adding more mass and momentum and less mobility in any defensive driving situation.
- Following distance needs to be greater, perhaps more than twice your usual habit, because of everything above.
Remember, other drivers may not take your careful planning or weight distribution into consideration. This can become frustrating especially in heavy traffic, but keep in mind that you’re big. You’re visible. And you’re probably in someone’s way, so they’ll have to deal with you.
What to Know (About Your RV) Before You Tow
- Your vehicle’s towing capacity. Can the vehicle you drive safely pull a trailer (fully loaded) and bring everything to a stop safely? A good rule of thumb is for the GTW (Gross Trailer Weight) to never exceed 80 percent of your vehicle’s maximum towing capacity.
- Your vehicle’s max tongue weight (MTW). Can the rear axle of your vehicle handle the additional weight of the trailer that isn’t being carried by the trailer axles? Generally this is 10 to 15 percent of the total trailer weight.
Having your vehicle and camper evenly matched is incredibly important to safe towing. As you head to the campsite you may have brought extra things: coolers full of food, kids, pets, extra fuel, outdoor adventure toys, and more. All of these need to be considered so you won’t put excess wear and tear on your vehicle nor exceed the safety limits of your rig.
Understanding How Hitches Work
Most conventional trailers and campers use a ball hitch mechanism to connect. The ball hitch insert connects to the towing vehicle through a hitch receiver which is bolted/welded to the vehicle chassis below the bumper. Here’s a great article that dives deep into trailer hitches. Note: Bumper hitches are NOT recommended for safely towing and are illegal in California.
The trailer has a hitch coupler that drops down over the ball when the coupler handle is in the open position. When closed, it brings a locking device (underjaw) up into position under the lower section of the ball. This prevents the hitch coupler from bouncing off the ball hitch while towing. The handle can be locked into position with either a pin or a standard lock.
Classes of Hitch Types and Ratings
Class I Hitch
This is the perfect hitch for lightweight loads like bike racks, cargo carriers, or very small trailers, and works with smaller vehicles.
- GTW (1,000 to 2,000 pounds); MTW (100 to 200 pounds); Receiver Size 1¼ inch
- Class I hitch receivers have a tab so that you can only use a Class I hitch accessory with this receiver. Since Class II hitches have the same receiver size, this is necessary so that you don’t unintentionally overload the receiver.
Class II Hitch
Heavier duty than Class I, these are still paired with smaller vehicles, but can accept heavier loads.
- GTW (2,000 to 3,000 pounds); MTW (200 to 300 pounds); Receiver Size 1¼ inch
- Class II can accept Class I hitch accessories.
Class III Hitch
Most traditional travel trailers will fall into this class, it is the most common hitch class across all towing vehicles because of the weight capacity range.
- GTW (3,500 to 8,000 pounds); MTW (300 to 800 pounds); Receiver Size 2 inch
- Typical vehicles include full-sized sedans, minivans, SUVs, and trucks.
Class IV Hitch
A much heavier duty load rating than Class III, but retains the 2-inch by 2-inch receiver.
- GTW (5,000 to 12,000 pounds); MTW (500 to 1,200 pounds); Receiver Size 2 inch
- Typical vehicles include large SUVs and trucks.
Class V Hitch
The biggest hitch type which is typically welded directly to the vehicle’s frame and offers a very large receiver. Intended to pull the heaviest loads like toy haulers, horse trailers, etc. An adapter can also help you insert Class IV (and lower) accessories into a Class V hitch receiver.
- GTW (10,000 to 25,000 pounds); MTW (1,000 to 2,500 pounds); Receiver Size 2 ½ to 3 inch
- Typical vehicles include large trucks with massive towing capacity.
Next up, we’ll talk about how to interpret your vehicle’s ratings, what sway hitches and drop hitches are all about — and the pros and cons of a fifth wheel trailer.
Eager to learn more about hitches? That’s very wise. Read more from our RV Tow Hitches 101 series.
Hitch Types and Ratings: RV Basics (Part 1)
How to Choose the Right Tow Hitch for Your RV (Part 2)
5 Common Mistakes That Lead to RV Trailer Hitch Problems (Part 3)
